Radiesse and Hylaform: “Grey’s Anatomy” terminal diagnoses or next-gen face smoothers?
We all hunger for that pore-less, line-less complexion -- the kind some actresses have, often courtesy of a needle. You want in? Here, peruse the ultimate at-a-glance guide to minimally invasive cosmetic procedures, compiled with help from experts in the field of dermatology.
Our experts:
We consulted dermatologists Dr. Ranella Hirsch, vice president of the American Society of Cosmetic Dermatology and Aesthetic Surgery, and Dr. Jeannette Graf, assistant clinical professor of dermatology at New York University School of Medicine. Procedures listed here have proven track records and little or no downtime.
By Mary Rose Almasi
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Botox
What It Does
Tiny amounts of purified botulism toxin injected into the face temporarily paralyze muscles and make wrinkles disappear.
What It's Best for
Crow
’s feet, frown lines and forehead lines
How Many Sessions You'll Need
One session lasts three to six months.
Pain
&
Recovery
You
’ll feel needle pricks, but numbing cream and ice minimize pain. Downtime is minimal and results begin to show within five days.
Average Cost
$
400 per facial zone (i.e. forehead lines, crow's feet, etc.)
Microdermabrasion
What It Does
Fine smooth grains are drawn across skin and vacuumed with a hand-held suction tube to exfoliate the outer layer of skin.
What It's Best for
Dull, dry skin; uneven texture; and fine lines
How Many Sessions You'll Need
The results from three to six sessions will last one to two weeks.
Pain
&
Recovery
It feels like a grainy face scrub. Skin is light pink for at least several hours afterward.
Average Cost
$
95 to
$
150 per session
Light Chemical Peel
What It Does
Lactic, glycolic or salicylic acid solution is swiped across your face to exfoliate the skin
’s outer layer.
What It's Best for
Dull, dry skin; fine lines; roughness; minor spots and freckles; large clogged pores; and occasionally, inflammatory acne
How Many Sessions You'll Need
The results from six sessions will last about six months.
Pain
&
Recovery
A mild stinging sensation (or worse) depending on your sensitivity. Skin is light pink for a few hours after the procedure.
Average Cost
$
150 per peel
TCA or "medium" peel
What It Does
Trichloroacetic acid (TCA) or stronger light chemical peel acids penetrate the skin
’s lower layer for more dramatic improvements.
What It's Best for
Deeper lines and wrinkles as well as uneven texture or color
How Many Sessions You'll Need
One session will last six months to a year.
Pain
&
Recovery
The standard burning sensation is treated with topical anesthetic and a light sedative like Valium. Skin is very red and raw after the procedure and will peel and flake for one to two weeks. Many opt not to go in public for the first four or five days.
Average Cost
$
800 to
$
1,000 for the full face
Filler: Fat
What It Does
Fat from your body is injected into skin to plump fine lines and sunken or flat features.
What It's Best for
Deep wrinkles, fine lines, indented scars, hollow or sunken under-eye areas and contouring facial features
How Many Sessions You'll Need
One session will last three to six months.
Pain
&
Recovery
Slight pain from the injection can be numbed with topical cream. Bruising and swelling are standard after the procedure.
Average Cost
$
1,000 to
$
2,000 (includes fat removal, which can be frozen for future use). Expect to pay about
$
800 for touch-ups.
Filler: Collagen
What It Does
Collagen, a natural plumping fiber taken from human or cow skin, is sterilized and processed into a liquid, then injected into skin to correct lines and indentations.
What It's Best for
Deep wrinkles, frown lines, crow's feet, thin lips and indented scars
How Many Sessions You'll Need
One session will last four to six months.
Pain
&
Recovery
Slight pain from the injection can be numbed with topical cream. Bruising and slight swelling is possible afterward.
Average Cost
$
300 to
$
1,000 per zone. Price depends on quantity of collagen used.
Filler: Hyaluronic Acid
What It Does
Gel filler, man-made or derived from rooster combs, is injected into skin to plump indentations. (Examples: Hylaform, Restylane, Juvederm, Perlane)
What It's Best for
Deep wrinkles, frown lines, crow's feet, indented scars, thin lips, hollow under-eye areas and contouring facial features
How Many Sessions You'll Need
One session lasts six months to a year.
Pain
&
Recovery
Slight pain from the injection can be numbed with topical cream. Bruising possible; swelling is common for 24-48 hours afterward.
Average Cost
$
600 to
$
800
Filler: Microbead Solutions
What It Does
Tiny spheres suspended in gel are injected in skin to smooth and fill deep lines. The spheres can stimulate new collagen growth. Fillers like Radiesse are semi-permanent and dissolve over time. ArteFill (aka Artecoll outside the U.S.) is permanent.
What It's Best for
Deep smile lines around mouth and nose; indented scars and sunken cheeks. Not recommended for shallow, fine lines around the eyes. Artefill is generally used for nose and mouth lines only.
How Many Sessions You'll Need
One session lasts one to two years or, for ArteFill/Artecoll, remains permanent.
Pain
&
Recovery
Substantial pain from injection. Topical numbing cream can help or the doctor may inject a nerve block. Bruising and swelling possible for 24-48 hours after.
Average Cost
$
1,000 or more
Non-Ablative Lasers
What It Does
Light energy is beamed into the lower layer of skin to stimulate collagen production, which plumps wrinkles and sunken spots, like pockmarks, acne scars and hollow eye areas. (Examples: Cool Touch, ClearLight and Semi-Ablative Fraxel)
What It's Best for
Rough texture, fine lines, deep wrinkles, scars and freckles
How Many Sessions You'll Need
Four to six sessions produce permanent results, although new texture or discoloration issues may develop.
Pain
&
Recovery
Expect a tiny sting as light is pulsed onto skin. Numbing cream can help. Your skin will look slightly pink or bronze a week or more after the procedure.
Average Cost
$
1,000 to
$
1,500
Intense Pulsed Light (IPL)
What It Does
A laser emits light wave energy into skin that destroys excess pigment. IPL/photo facials are less intense and considered less effective than
“true” lasers.
What It's Best for
Sun damage, redness, broken blood vessels and brown discoloration, including freckles
How Many Sessions You'll Need
Three to six sessions will last six months to a year.
Pain
&
Recovery
A slight sting. No downtime, but expect pinkness for a few hours after the procedure. For very dark freckles, there may be some crusting and scabbing; ask ahead.
Average Cost
$
350 to
$
2,000 per treatment
Radio Frequency (Thermage)
What It Does
Radio-frequency energy penetrates deep into the skin to stimulate collagen production and tighten skin. It can treat large areas or smaller zones, including around the eyes.
What It's Best for
Loose, saggy skin
How Many Sessions You'll Need
One to three sessions will show benefits gradually over six months, with results lasting up to a year.
Pain
&
Recovery
A brief, hot sensation during procedure can be painful. Treated area is pink for one to two hours after the procedure.
Average Cost
$
1,000 to
$
2,000 per treatment
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