Slugging may have took off on TikTok, but the concept isn't groundbreaking. "It is not a new trend and has been in use for decades, from babies to older adults, to help treat and repair dry, sensitive skin," says Vanessa Coppola, FNP-BC, board certified nurse practitioner, aesthetic specialist and owner of Bare Aesthetic Medical Spa.
It works by helping to strengthen and repair the stratum corneum, a protective, lipid-rich membrane that forms the outermost layer of skin, according to Coppola. This membrane can get damaged by environmental factors, genetics and even skin care products.
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The most popular product for slugging is Vaseline Original Unscented Petroleum Jelly, $1.59. It undergoes a triple purification process so it lends itself well to the practice.
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Coppola stresses that it's important to remember that petroleum jelly is not a moisturizer. It is a barrier agent that helps lock in moisture by preventing water loss. It also locks in other products, which can be good and bad.
"Some of the side effects from skin care products may be exacerbated by applying petroleum jelly on top because they aren't exposed to the air, leakage is limited and the natural vehicle within which they are formulated to deliver the active ingredients to the skin is altered," says Coppola. "Caution should be exercised to determine tolerance for the increased concentration of skin care products layered underneath the petroleum jelly."
Slugging should always be the last step in a routine. If you've experienced sensitivity with any skin care product previously, don't apply them during a slugging session. Do a patch test your first time slugging and always monitor your skin for any adverse reactions.
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Experts agree that slugging is best suited for dry skin types. That's because it traps in moisture, helping to nourish dry skin.
Oily or acne-prone skin is another story, though. "Given the occlusive nature of petrolatum, it can clog pores," says Patel. That's why most doctors don't recommend the treatment for acne-prone skin.
On the other hand, if your skin isn't prone to breakouts Coppola says that slugging is suitable for sensitive skin, especially if it is dry. But be mindful of the other products in a slugging routine and watch out for any negative reactions.
If your complexion is more on the combination side, Coppola says you should try a spot treatment approach on drier areas. Just be aware that skin care products can migrate, particularly while you sleep.
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Those who want to try slugging but find petroleum jellies too rich or not suitable for their skin type can try using other moisturizers or oils. Coppola suggests ones rich in hyaluronic acid, ceramides and glycerin.
Doft recommends a cream packed with hyaluronic acid because it will trap water in skin, like Glow Recipe Plum Plump Hyaluronic Acid Serum, $42. She also suggests using a rich moisturizer. If you're acne-prone, Patel recommends using squalane oil.
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