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The ABCs of Acne

Everything you need to know about the causes of and treatments for acne, your most mystifying skin issue
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S Is for Scars
If there's anything worse than a pimple, it's the scar that it leaves behind. Scars -- more precisely, post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation -- occur when the pimple's inflammation stimulates your skin's melanocytes to produce melanin, which is the pigment in your skin.

"There are three imperative steps" to treat hyperpigmentation, says Goldfaden. "Exfoliate, treat with a lightening agent and protect with [sunscreen]."

Your Rx: Tanzi treats hyperpigmentation with "short bursts" of hydroquinone and mushroom-derived kojic acid, which lighten skin by curbing melanin production. (GloTherapeutics Lightening Serum contains both ingredients.) Goldfaden recommends his Goldfaden MD Light Treatment Dark Spot Corrector, which uses arbutin, "a natural ingredient derived from berries that inhibit[s] melanin production and breaks down whatever darkness is already on the surface."

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T Is for Types
Pimples are always a PIA, but they're not all alike. The blanket term "acne" or "pimple" really applies to a range of skin imperfections.

Your acne is considered mild if you have comedones, aka blackheads and whiteheads. Blackheads are blemishes that aren't under the skin and look like tiny, dark-colored spots. Whiteheads are closed blemishes that appear as small bumps in the skin.

Papules, a sign of moderate acne, are slightly larger bumps that occur when bacteria infects the hair follicle. They may become filled with pus.

Hard, swollen bumps that are painful to the touch are known as nodules, and these are a sign that your acne is severe. Cysts are like nodules -- large, painful bumps -- that are filled with pus.

Your Rx: If you have comedones, that's a sign that drugstore products with benzoyl peroxide or salicylic acid will clear them. If you have papules or nodules, you might need a dermatologist's help.

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U Is for UV Damage
Oh, the sun. It sucks for your body in so many ways. Here's another one: The sun makes marks left from pimples worse by increasing the level of pigmentation in skin, so they take much longer to fade. (Grumble, grumble.)

Your Rx: Never go outside without broad-spectrum sunscreen. "The best ones to look for are zinc [oxide] or titanium [dioxide] sunblocks that have a tint, so they protect and cover at the same time," Tanzi says.

Tanzi likes the "light and noncomedogenic" L'Oréal Advanced Suncare Silky Sheer BB Face Lotion 50+ and La Roche-Posay Anthelios 50 Mineral Tinted Ultra Light Sunscreen Fluid.

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V Is for Vitamin E
Vitamin E is in avocados, papaya, olive oil and so many other magnificent things. But the very ingredient that makes you look hydrated and glow-y is hell on acne.

Researchers at the University of Miami found that vitamin E inhibits scar healing for 90 percent of patients (yowza). In the study, vitamin E caused contact dermatitis in one third of these patients.

Your Rx: Steer clear of products that boast vitamin E on their ingredient labels. (You might see it referred to as alpha-tocopherol.) Taking it orally in supplement form is A-OK.

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W Is for Wipe Devices
Some of the most bacteria-laden objects in your environment are the ones that receive the most contact with your hands. In fact, your cellphone is one of the most pathogen-infested things you touch on a daily basis, notorious among dermatologists for its bacteria-transferring abilities.

"The area from the temple to the chin [is] referred to as the 'phone zone,'" says Frank. "Your phone holds onto germs and these germs can be transferred onto your skin."

Your Rx: Keep a box of antibacterial wipes in your desk or car caddy so you remember to wipe down your device a few times a week. Frank recommends regular exfoliation to unclog pores and lessen the likelihood that bacteria transferred from your phone will lead to a breakout.

What causes acne, how to prevent acne from forming, and how to treat existing acne are three of the most mystifying issues in dermatology today. That's because acne can be influenced by such a weird amalgamation of factors -- from major influences like lifestyle, heredity and stress down to seemingly insignificant details like what you pour over your cereal in the morning. Here's everything we know about acne and how to cure it, from the foods that cause acne to pimple home remedies to antibiotics for acne.
BY KATIE MCCARTHY | JUN 1, 2015 | SHARES
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