OK, So How Do I Know Which Acne-Fighting Ingredient to Use?
"The lines are a little blurred," says Zeichner (insert Robin Thicke reference here). "Traditionally, the thinking is to use a little bit of both since they work differently." Salicylic acid alone is good if you're dealing with oily skin and clogged pores (typically, this is how teenage acne first manifests, Zeichner adds). But if your pimples are red, swollen or filled with pus, there's likely a bacterial element at play, and it may be time to add some benzoyl peroxide into the mix, notes Gohara.
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I Don't Have Acne. Should I Still Use Salicylic Acid?
In a word, yes. It not only offers a whole slew of therapeutic benefits for treating skin conditions like warts and psoriasis, but it also helps with more superficial concerns, namely, signs of aging. Salicylic acid's ability to exfoliate makes it great for addressing complexion imperfections like discoloration and fine lines. "By promoting cell turnover, it leaves skin looking fresher and more radiant," Zeichner says. Yes, please.
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Should Anyone Avoid It?
As a rule, there aren't a ton of downsides or contraindications when it comes to salicylic acid (if you're preggers, check with your doc first). Yes, it's an acid, so irritation is always a potential side effect, especially if your skin is on the sensitive side. But in the world of acids, it's gentler than many others, which means even people with conditions like rosacea or perioral dermatitis can at least try it, points out Gohara. One caveat: It does make your skin more sensitive to the sun. Since it exfoliates the dead cells on the surface, skin becomes more susceptible to sun damage, cautions Zeichner. NBD, just be extra diligent about your daily SPF application.
What Kind of Salicylic Acid Products Should I Try?
Cleansers are a great option, especially if your skin is oily. But the trick to reaping their benefits is leaving the cleanser on your skin long enough for the salicylic acid to work. "Suds up, sing the alphabet, then rinse off," advises Zeichner. Try Cosmedicine Healthy Cleanse-Oily, $52, for your face, or Neutrogena Body Clear Body Wash, $7, for your bod (buh-bye, back acne!).
Here's the thing. Just like at the drive-thru, there's no need to supersize it. More is not better when it comes to acne-fighting ingredients. A stronger concentration of salicylic acid (or benzoyl peroxide, for that matter) will likely just dry out your skin and isn't necessarily going to be any more effective, says Zeichner. Most OTC products typically contain between .5 percent to 2 percent; there's no need to go searching for anything higher than that.
