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African American Makeup Tips From the Pros

What are the best foundations? The hottest lipstick shades? Here's your handy hot list
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Finding flattering cosmetics for African American women can feel like "Makeup Mission: Impossible." A great base? Even the best makeup lines might have a limited range of dark foundation shades. Eye shadow for dark skin? Many pigments aren't intense enough to pop on a darker complexion. Shimmery creams and powders? The texture can look obvious and unnatural.

So we called in the pros -- makeup artists who've worked with some of the most well-known African American beauties -- to give us their secrets. Here are their expert makeup tips for black women, including choosing foundation and tinted moisturizer, the importance of contouring, and the best eye shadow and lipstick shades.

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Why Your Base Really Is the Foundation of Your Makeup
Nothing's worse than an otherwise gorgeous face tinted with chalky, reddish or orange-y foundation. Determining your skin's undertones can help guide you toward the perfect shade of base, not to mention eye, cheek and lip colors that best complement your complexion.

"Most lines have foundations in certain tone 'families,'" says makeup artist Melanie Mills, a former head makeup artist for "Dancing With the Stars" who has worked with celebs like Brandy Norwood. Makeup lines with a wide selection of dark foundations typically have their shades organized into four families: yellow/orange (warm), red/orange (warm to neutral), red (neutral to cool) and blue/red (cool).

Not sure which is your undertone? Here's a hint: People with cool undertones tend to look better in silver jewelry and white clothes; those with warm undertones look better in gold jewelry and off-white clothes. When shopping for foundation, choose three shades within that tone family: one that appears slightly lighter than your skin, one that appears to match, and one that appears slightly darker. Let the foundation sink in for five minutes and take a look at them under ample (preferably natural) light. "The one that 'disappears' is the one you should go with," Mills advises. If none look quite right, choose a few more shades from a different tone family and start over.

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Makeup Colors That Pop (and Four to Avoid)
No one can pull off rich or ultra-bright makeup tones like black women can. That orange lip color that ruled the spring collection fashion shows? You own that look. Orchid purple, aka the Pantone Color of the Year? That's all you, too.

"In general, always go with rich colors," says makeup artist Nick Barose, whose clients have included starlets Lupita Nyong'o and Gabrielle Union. "For lighter skin, opt for deep orange, salmon. On deeper, darker skin, go with true red, berries." Makeup guru Elaina Badro, who has worked with actress China Anne McClain and singer Brian McKnight, also loves a deep red lip. "Berry-toned lipsticks are great for cooler undertones on dark skin," she says. "When choosing a red for darker skin with warm undertones, go with a burgundy wine hue." Mills likes purple, gold and chocolate colors on black skin, no matter what your undertone.

Shades that these artists vetoed? Silver, gray and white. These colors "can make the wearer look ashy," says Mills. Badro agrees. "Frosty whites or creams on dark skin... will appear a bit gray." Mills also avoids using orange-y reds on her black clients. "Tomato reds are tricky," she says.

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Amp up the Eyes (and Don't Forget the Power Brow)
Just as black women can easily wear outrageous, bright colors, bold eye makeup looks are simply fabulous.

Mills encourages black women to experiment with false lashes and the thick brow trend. "Filled-in brows ... frame the eyes," she explains. "Some women of color tend to have sparser eyebrows, so I use a mixture of pencil, liner and brow powder." If you're nervous about your brow shape looking unnatural, Mills suggests using a brow stencil as a guide.

Makeup artist Erica Bishop suggests trying a classic cat-eye using a liner in a bright, trendy color. "Variations like a bronze cat eye or deep purples look great on African American skin," she says.

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Don't Be Afraid to Wear a Lot...
When it comes to black women and makeup, the cliché "less is more" doesn't necessarily apply. "African American skin can take makeup," Mills insists. "Lupita Nyong'o, Michelle Obama, Toni Braxton -- all of these women wear makeup, and a lot of it."

That's not to say you should aspire to "showgirl chic" when you're putting on your face. But you can get away with wearing heavy makeup and still look "fresh, stylized and clean," Mills says. For instance, when it comes to base, Mills likes a "more substantial foundation" against dark skin. "Heavier works better -- [like] cream sticks." If your skin is particularly oily, she suggests using a mineral foundation or primer and powder.

Mills says that learning how to contour and highlight your face makes a particular impact on darker complexions. "Highlighting ... really pops features and makes eyes stand out so beautifully."

BY KATIE MCCARTHY | MAR 3, 2014 | SHARES
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