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8 Things to Know Before Getting a Curly Haircut

Whether you're going for the chop or just getting a trim, here's how to get perfectly cut curls every time
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Look for a standard toolkit
Just as you wouldn't hit up a nail salon that doesn't have nail files, you shouldn't visit a hair salon that's lacking the proper curly-girl tools. To be sure you're in the right place, Willhite suggests scoping for the following tools:

• A double-sided comb with varied spaces between the teeth will give your stylist the ability to detangle and properly section the hair. This kind of comb helps control different textures and densities.

• Sturdy clips to help hold curly textures and give your stylist the ability to have full control while staying organized.

• Sharp shears -- no matter what the curl type or texture -- will give your stylist proper control for an efficient, seamless haircut.

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Keep your specific curl type in mind
Not all curly hair is the same. Curly hair types and textures run the gamut of shapes and sizes, from loose waves to kinky curls. Hair that's on the wavier end of the spectrum has a tendency to fall flat around the crown, says Long, so that is where the majority of the shaping and cutting will occur.

If your curls are on the kinkier side, Long recommends stylists use zero tension (i.e. no tugging or pulling). "The slightest bit of tension while dry cutting tighter curls and zigzags will greatly affect the finished shape and length."

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Be clear about working your angles
Curly hair is unpredictable -- your curls don't all cascade nicely in one direction. For that reason, it's important to carve curls in small batches. According to Willhite, mapping the head prior to a haircut will allow your stylist find her starting point. First, she will analyze your hair's growth pattern at the nape of the neck and the hairline. Secondly, she will look for different curl types and patterns as they can vary throughout the head. Third, your stylist should pay attention to the hair's health condition, which can impact how your curls may fall.

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To blow out or not to blow out ...
Let's say you're a curly girl who keeps her hair natural about 10 percent of the time (we don't blame you). Most days, you prefer a good flat iron. According to Willhite, if you like the versatility of wearing your hair both curly and straight, you won't be happy if you have your hair cut in its dry and curly state. "You need to follow a bit of a structured approach to ensure evenness, as straight hair is less forgiving," she says.

Instead, opt for a cut while your hair is straight; Long suggests starting at the back. "By starting in the back, you will have a much more balanced final result and be able to preserve length where you need it most -- under the occipital (that's the base of the skull) and around the ears."

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Take breaks
Typically, stylists recommend getting a haircut every three to four months. Curly ladies, however, can limit their trips to the salon to only a couple times a year.

"Curly girls need a haircut much less often [than women with straight hair]," says Walent. "As long as the curls are being hydrated properly and are in excellent health, a curly girl can go up to six months between haircuts."

"We all need to nurture our hair for health. The more time you put into deep conditioning treatments, the longer you will be able to extend the life of your haircut. And remember, over-trimming curly hair will compromise length as well as shape. One inch of dry straight hair is not one inch of dry curly hair!" says Long.

There are a million reasons why styling curly hair is more difficult than styling straight hair -- the products, the curl manipulation, and ensuring they all look the same for (at least) most of the day. Not to mention the whole length issue (shrinkage, anyone?). Which is why finding someone who can cut curly hair without butchering it requires more than a neighborhood Yelp search. It requires research -- knowing exactly how to get the perfect haircut with hair so full of personality.
BY TIFFANIE PETETT | MAY 23, 2014 | SHARES
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