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Doobies, Pineappling and Sisterlocks: What Natural Hair Care Really Means

Eight naturalista bloggers help us break it down
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Curl Type
Not all curls are the same. NaturallyCurly.com details the The Curl Typing Classification System, created by hairstylist Andre Walker, as the most widely used for defining specific curl patterns. Types 1 and 2 are specific to straight and wavy hair; types 3 and 4 range from curly to kinky. The subcategories -- A, B and C -- define the texture classes.

Type 3: Curly
Type 3A: Curly Twirly
Type 3B: Curly Spirally
Type 3C: Curly Coily
Type 4: Coily
Type 4A: Coily Springy
Type 4B: Coily Crimpy
Type 4C: Coily Ziggly

Brooke of Black Girl Long Hair says, "Overall my hair is 3AB. It's curliest (3B) in the back and underneath on the sides. It is looser and super frizzy in the top-middle (3AB mix), and in the front it mostly consists of a mix of large, loose curls and waves, similar to the 3A type," says Brooke.

Annisa, who also blogs on Black Girl Long Hair, says, "My hair texture is 3C/4A. It has a highly defined curl pattern and is really thick, so it requires a lot of moisture."

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Doobie
We can point to a single moment in pop culture when the term "doobie" (in reference to hair) hit the mainstream lexicon: Rihanna's appearance at the 2013 American Music Awards. The nighttime style is typically strictly worn in the privacy of your own home and involves brushing your hair around your head and wrapping it with a scarf to keep it straight. But the island pop princess wore hers loud and proud -- and man, did people freak out.

"As a child living in Puerto Rico, my mother and her three sisters put their hair in doobies every night," says The Messy Vanity blogger Kat. "They all had long, curly or frizzy hair, and the doobie was the healthiest way to get a straight look without burning it with a hot comb or using an iron (like, an actual clothing iron)."

"As I grew older and started doing my own hair, my mom taught me the dos and don'ts of doobies: Do make sure your hair is completely detangled; don't do the doobie when your hair is soaking wet."

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Sisterlocks
A thinner, more feminine version of dreadlocks, this hairstyle is one of the most popular for women who have gone natural. The official Sisterlocks style was created and trademarked by Dr. JoAnne Cornwell -- which means no one can use the name in advertising or demonstrate in how-to videos without being trained by a certified associate of the Sisterlocks company.

"Sisterlocks are like a hush-hush form of locks in general," says Terez Howard of Natural Hair Rules. Unless you are professionally trained in the specialized technique, you cannot create videos or tutorials demonstrating it. "But at a salon, you could pay upwards of $550 depending on the length of your hair and the size of your locs." So what's the alternative when, depending on your hair, the Sisterlocks technique can involve more than just twisting as is required with regular deadlocks?

"I loop my hair several times through the grown-out portion of the lock at the root. That means pulling back other locks (of the near hundreds all over my hair) so that they don't get caught and snagged in the process. [Re-tightening] is not as hard as you think ... but it takes forever," Howard explains. Eight hours, to be exact (and costs $80 to $100 every six weeks at a salon)."



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Shrinkage
For most women, shrinkage is what happens to a pair of jeans after going through the dryer. Not. OK. And for women with natural hair types, shrinkage is equally problematic. Straightened, the hair is long (what many girls would kill for), but in its kinky-curly state, it appears much (sometimes 95%) shorter.

"There are many products that claim to control or prevent shrinkage, but I'm not really a believer," Yvodney Washington of Hairs Yvie says. "I have less shrinkage by pulling my hair up and back at night and releasing it in the morning. Shrinkage is a reality for all of us coil-y girls. No matter what, I know my hair is going to have some sort of shrinkage unless I'm wearing it straight."



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Heat Stretching
For length-obsessed naturalistas, heat stretching combats shrinkage. Done by using a blow-dryer, heat stretching is a less damaging alternative to flat ironing, helping to avoid permanently altering your hair's natural texture and curl pattern.

"I started heat stretching, because I didn't want my regular use of heat to be mistaken for heat training," says Alicia James of Easy Natural Hair, who says she has a mix of 4A, 4B and 4C curls. "I'm not trying to change the natural texture of my hair. I do it because heat makes my hair easier to manage. My knots and tangles are minimal, and I experience less breakage and shedding throughout the week ... My goal is not to have straight hair, but to manipulate my hair in a way that helps me maintain it daily."

"Using heat is a big decision when it comes to [natural] hair maintenance. You have to always be very careful and understand the risk that comes with doing it ... even just once. For extra heat protection, I use extra virgin olive oil. It was already a regular part of my hair regimen, and extra virgin olive oil has a high smoke point, so it can tolerate high heat."

BY TIFFANIE PETETT | OCT 16, 2014 | SHARES
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