Keratin hair treatments are controversial because Some contain (or used to contain) formaldehyde, or more correctly, a chemical called formalin (or methylene glycol) that "when heated to 450 degrees can turn back into formaldehyde," Schoon says.
Formaldehyde is on the Department of Health and Human Services' "Reasonably Anticipated to Be Human Carcinogens" list, and has been linked to certain cancers like leukemia. But the levels of formaldehyde found in these treatments are safe, Schoon explains, especially when proper protection and ventilation are used. Over the course of a keratin treatment, clients won't be at risk, unless they have an allergy to formaldehyde or other aldehydes.
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Formaldehyde-Free Keratin
Real-talk time: There's no such thing as a truly chemical-free hair-straightening treatment. For a keratin treatment to give you shiny, straighter, frizz-free hair for months, it must contain formalin or another chemical in the same family. Common "formaldehyde free" products often contain: glutaraldehyde, biformal (a.k.a. oxalaldehyde — note the "aldehyde") and ammonium thioglycolate (the same chemical used in perms).
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What's the Best Keratin Treatment for Me?
It's best to consult with a stylist (most offer this free of charge) because the keratin treatments "offer similar but slightly different results," says Lorraine who works with three different brands. Depending on your hair texture, the result you want and your lifestyle, some may be better suited for you.
Click through the next few slides to get details and reviews on some of the most popular name-brand treatments.
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Keratin Complex
Key ingredients: Biformyl, Hydrolyzed Keratin
Average cost: $350
Results last: 3 to 5 months
Post-care requirements: You must wait 72 hours before washing hair or securing hair in bands or clips. Sodium chloride and sulfate-free shampoos and conditioners are also recommended.
Reader experience:
"I love the way it made my hair smooth/sleek without using a flat iron," says TotalBeauty.com reader Angie who has hair that's not "that frizzy or curly." She said the treatment didn't have a bad smell, but that "my eyes did burn a little while it was sitting on my hair before [the stylist] dried it."
The main thing that did bother her, "I couldn't stand waiting 72 hours to wash my hair ... [The treatment] was supposed to last three to six months. Mine lasted a little over a month that I could tell." She blames this on washing her hair a day early and that she "didn't use the right shampoo/conditioner afterwards." She also washes her hair daily, which many stylists say will cut the effects of the treatment short.
Key ingredients: A proprietary polymer system and Brazilian Super Nutrient Complex (which the company keeps secret)
Average cost: $350
Results last: 3 to 4 months
Post-care requirements: You can wash hair immediately and style as usual. Sulfate-free shampoos are recommended.
Reader experience:
"The treatment is life-changing," says TotalBeauty.com reader Anna who has naturally thick, coarse hair that gets frizzy, especially in the back. "I have long hair too so my styling routine takes me a good hour and 15 minutes for blow dry and straightening. I was getting tired of my hair maintenance routine but I didn't want to do a treatment that would be harsh on my hair, adding more damage in the long run," she says. "I can wash and go without using a dryer OR straight iron!!!" The best part, "It's been about two months now and I haven't had to use a blow dryer or flat iron since. I highly recommend it for anyone with hair like me. You'll absolutely love it!"
Keratin treatments for straight, smooth hair has reached major popularity among our readers. According to Eric Rosado, Artistic Director at Ted Gibson Salon in New York City, keratin treatments are truly, "the best option for defrizzing and smoothing many textures of hair from curly to relaxed."
Mauricio Ribeiro, creator of the Brazilian Blowout, says that since their launch, keratin treatments have evolved so much — and customers no longer complain about a strong chemical smell. That said, the process won't work without chemicals.
"To get shiny, straight hair for months, formaldehyde or other aldehydes must be used," explains Chemist Doug Schoon, president of School Scientific in Dana Point, California. "I believe [clients] have no risk" of being harmed by the treatments, he added.
Bottom line, the choice is yours when it comes to deciding if a Brazilian keratin hair treatment is right for you. To make your decision easier, read on to get answers to commonly asked questions about keratin and feedback from readers on some of the big-name treatments.
There are so many keratin hair treatments available now, so if we missed one that you love or one that you had a bad experience with, please tell us about it by commenting on this story.
