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FYI: You're Washing Your Face All Wrong

These rookie mistakes can ruin your skin
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Your Water is Above THIS Temperature
If the temperature of your water is above 100 degrees when it hits your face, you're stripping away the natural oils that protect your skin. Hot water also makes your skin flush, which releases heat (and moisture along with it), says New York-based dermatologist Dr. Macrene Alexiades-Armenakas.

The fix: Treat your skin like you would if you were bathing a newborn -- use lukewarm water. That's about 90- to 100-degrees Fahrenheit. Don't know how hot your water is? Neither did I. I always assumed I was washing at lukewarm temps, but I decided to test it out. I ran a digital instant read kitchen thermometer under water at the temperature I typically wash my face in ... and couldn't believe what I saw. My water was about 20 degrees over "lukewarm."

If you don't have a digital thermometer, your analog turkey thermometer will work, too, but it'll take longer to register the temperature. You can also use a digital baby thermometer, but they typically only measure up to 110 degrees.

For a more low-tech approach, submerge your hand in a bowl full of the water at the temperature you're washing in. If it's an uncomfortable temperature on your hand, it's too hot, says Joshua Zeichner, M.D., director of cosmetic and clinical research for the department of dermatology at Mount Sinai Medical Center. Or, scan your face three to five minutes after you wash it. If it's flushed, dial down the heat.

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You're Still Using a Terrycloth Washcloth
You might feel like like you're exfoliating all your troubles away with that old school terrycloth washcloth, but it's too easy to over-scrub when you use those soft (seeming) cloths. Then, you're not exfoliating, you're creating tiny tears in your skin, which can lead to inflammation and wrinkles. Oh, and those washcloths are havens for bacteria. Think about it: you wash your face, (kinda) rinse and wring the washcloth out, then let it air dry until you use it again. There are dead skin cells on that washcloth. There's ample opportunity and time for bacteria and other microbes to grow and spread. So, unless you're using a fresh, clean cloth every day, you're washing your face with ... ick.

The fix: If you absolutelycannot stand the thought of only using your hands and fingertips to wash your face and don't want to shell out for a face-washing gadget, switch over to a muslin cloth. These 100 percent cotton, lightweight cloths won't irritate your skin and dry quickly. If you rinse the cloths thoroughly in hot water and let them air dry, they're good to go for a couple days. Wash them every other day with your regular load of whites. If your skin is sensitive to detergent, boil the cloth in water and let it air dry.

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You Chase That Squeaky-Clean Feeling
The tight, tingly, oh-so-clean feeling you get after you remove your makeup, cleanse and sweep toner over your face is the skin care equivalent of washing a Rolls-Royce with a sand blaster and buffing it dry with wet sandpaper. Harsh cleansers or using too many products, especially in combos that are lethal, strip away natural (read: healthy, nourishing) oils and irritate your skin. Best of all? It gives you a "false sense of cleanliness," says Dr. Alexiades-Armenakas. You think you're all clean, but really, you've just stripped away the protective barrier that keeps your skin moisturized and healthy.

The fix: If you have sensitive or dry skin, scale back to two products, max. (makeup remover and cleanser). Avoid cleansers that foam right out of the pump, which tend to contain soap surfactants (the ingredients that make it lather), which can strip and irritate skin, says Dr. Alexiades-Armenakas. And what about this double-cleansing process we've been hearing about? It's a good way to get your skin super clean, especially if your face is all sweaty from working out, or you're wearing heavy makeup. "Do not use exfoliating beads or grains to double cleanse," warns Miami-based dermatologist Betty Bellman, M.D. Instead, remove your makeup with a cleansing wipe or gentle makeup remover before following with your cleanser.

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You Treat Your Face Like You Treat Your Armpits
Washing your face in the shower with the same bar soap you use all over your body ... bad idea. Bar soaps designed for your body use alkaline ingredients that are too harsh for the face, says Dr. Zeichner. The pH level of the alkaline damages the outer layer of your skin, which dries and irritates your skin. Bar soaps also tend to contain fragrances that can cause allergic reactions.

The fix: If you're stranded without face wash -- for instance, you're at a hotel and you forgot your cleanser at home -- skip the bar soap and gently rub your face with warm water and a fresh washcloth, says Dr. Zeichner.

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You Wash Your Face Like You're Still 16
Lemme guess: You walk into a drugstore and grab whatever face wash is on sale. Or maybe you still use the same cleanser you used in high school when you had acne. Big mistakes. Your adult skin is entirely different from your teen skin -- your breakouts are different, the amount of moisture and elasticity in your skin is different, the issues affecting your skin (hormones, stress) are different.

The cleanser you use can exacerbate whatever skin issues you have. Example? If you have dry skin and acne, using a cleanser with benzoyl peroxide will only dry and irritate your skin more, says Dr. Alexiades-Armenakas.

The fix: Use a cleanser specifically designed for your skin type (oily, dry, combo or normal), not your skin problems. Kinda obvious, right? But do you actually know your skin type? Here's how to figure it out, once and for all: examine your skin in the morning, midday and at night. If you look in the mirror midday and your entire face is shiny, you have oily skin. If the oiliness is only on your T-zone (your chin, forehead, and between your cheeks), you've got combination skin. Dry skin will feel tight even after moisturizing. And if you find that taking your makeup off at night irritates your skin and makes it sensitive to the touch -- do we need to spell it out for you? (S-E-N-S-I-T-I-V-E.) If none of these apply to you, you have normal skin.

So which kind of cleanser should you choose? Dr. Marina Peredo, associate clinical professor of Dermatology at Mount Sinai Hospital in New York, says that a gentle cleansing cream works well for all skin types. If you have dry skin, avoid products containing alcohol, which can further dry you out. Sensitive skin ladies should steer clear of products with fragrances and look for soothing ingredients like aloe vera and chamomile, says aesthetician Gary Dickman.

BY ALLIE FLINN | JAN 26, 2014 | SHARES
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