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Doobies, Pineappling and Sisterlocks: What Natural Hair Care Really Means

Eight naturalista bloggers help us break it down
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Big Chop (BC)
Going for a BC (big chop) can be exciting for some girls, and downright terrifying for others. Sure it's like a fresh start, a blank slate even, but who really wants to chop off all of their hair? Depending on the severity of damage, BC-ing can leave you with no more than a few inches of hair. And while it's a huge change to undertake, most naturalistas opt to do the job solo (that's right, sans a professional).

Blogger Tyra Robinson of Indigenous Curls did her Big Chop after years of wearing "waist-long weaves, huge fluffy wigs or braids." She explains that, post-weave, "My hair was a dry, dull mess, so I chopped off all my relaxed ends and hopped in the shower. There I stood, with nothing to hide behind -- no weave, no makeup ... just me."

"It took some time for my family and friends to get used to the change. Learning how to style big hair in a conservative environment can be tricky. My BC got a mixed reception in the corporate world. At work I heard everything from 'I love it!' to 'This style is outside of company standards.'"

"As Coco Chanel said, 'A woman who cuts her hair is about to change her life!'"

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Teeny Weeny Afro (TWA)
The TWA is generally the next stage after a Big Chop. Short-short, kinky and about as low-maintenance as it gets, TWAs are a blessing for some women, but for others, it's an "in-between" style -- a frustrating phase of having only a few inches of hair that lasts until hair grows out.

"Having a TWA challenged me to see myself in a different light," says Tamara Floyd of Natural Hair Rules, who has a longer style now but once upon a time wore a TWA. "You disassociate yourself from your long-haired, processed former self. Your TWA ... rebels against the products and styles that you wore with processed hair. So you pretty much have to re-learn your hair texture."

"After your BC, people typically assume you have a TWA because you're crazy, you're sick, your man is doing you wrong, you're losing your hair or you're having a mid-life crisis. You can be Beyoncé and people will think these things."

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Curl Type
Not all curls are the same. NaturallyCurly.com details the The Curl Typing Classification System, created by hairstylist Andre Walker, as the most widely used for defining specific curl patterns. Types 1 and 2 are specific to straight and wavy hair; types 3 and 4 range from curly to kinky. The subcategories -- A, B and C -- define the texture classes.

Type 3: Curly
Type 3A: Curly Twirly
Type 3B: Curly Spirally
Type 3C: Curly Coily
Type 4: Coily
Type 4A: Coily Springy
Type 4B: Coily Crimpy
Type 4C: Coily Ziggly

Brooke of Black Girl Long Hair says, "Overall my hair is 3AB. It's curliest (3B) in the back and underneath on the sides. It is looser and super frizzy in the top-middle (3AB mix), and in the front it mostly consists of a mix of large, loose curls and waves, similar to the 3A type," says Brooke.

Annisa, who also blogs on Black Girl Long Hair, says, "My hair texture is 3C/4A. It has a highly defined curl pattern and is really thick, so it requires a lot of moisture."

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Doobie
We can point to a single moment in pop culture when the term "doobie" (in reference to hair) hit the mainstream lexicon: Rihanna's appearance at the 2013 American Music Awards. The nighttime style is typically strictly worn in the privacy of your own home and involves brushing your hair around your head and wrapping it with a scarf to keep it straight. But the island pop princess wore hers loud and proud -- and man, did people freak out.

"As a child living in Puerto Rico, my mother and her three sisters put their hair in doobies every night," says The Messy Vanity blogger Kat. "They all had long, curly or frizzy hair, and the doobie was the healthiest way to get a straight look without burning it with a hot comb or using an iron (like, an actual clothing iron)."

"As I grew older and started doing my own hair, my mom taught me the dos and don'ts of doobies: Do make sure your hair is completely detangled; don't do the doobie when your hair is soaking wet."

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Sisterlocks
A thinner, more feminine version of dreadlocks, this hairstyle is one of the most popular for women who have gone natural. The official Sisterlocks style was created and trademarked by Dr. JoAnne Cornwell -- which means no one can use the name in advertising or demonstrate in how-to videos without being trained by a certified associate of the Sisterlocks company.

"Sisterlocks are like a hush-hush form of locks in general," says Terez Howard of Natural Hair Rules. Unless you are professionally trained in the specialized technique, you cannot create videos or tutorials demonstrating it. "But at a salon, you could pay upwards of $550 depending on the length of your hair and the size of your locs." So what's the alternative when, depending on your hair, the Sisterlocks technique can involve more than just twisting as is required with regular deadlocks?

"I loop my hair several times through the grown-out portion of the lock at the root. That means pulling back other locks (of the near hundreds all over my hair) so that they don't get caught and snagged in the process. [Re-tightening] is not as hard as you think ... but it takes forever," Howard explains. Eight hours, to be exact (and costs $80 to $100 every six weeks at a salon)."



BY TIFFANIE PETETT | OCT 16, 2014 | SHARES
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