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Beauty on the Front Lines

Ever wonder what a beauty routine in the armed forces looks like? Four servicewomen reveal what they pack in their cosmetic bags when deployed and why
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Hair Styling: The Rules
The edit team at Total Beauty will be the first to tell you of the endless possibilities we have when it comes to hairstyles. Parts, braids, textures, curls, waves, and the list goes on and on. Our servicewomen can have 15-hour days, on alert, so naturally there isn't time to fuss over Pinterest tutorials and complicated updos. The Code is specific on hair regulations from length down to soldiers' parts. Extensions, weaves, and wigs are authorized, as long as they have the same appearance as the individual's natural hair. Parts are to be one straight line, not slanted or curved, and "fall in the area where the soldier would normally part the hair."

And as much as we all love a good lob, or a stylish set of blunt bangs, the code clearly states, "Hair will not fall over the eyebrows or extend below the bottom edge of the collar at any time during normal activity or when standing in formation." Hair that falls below the bottom edge of the collar (including braids) must be "neatly and inconspicuously fastened or pinned, so no free-hanging hair is visible." In laymen's terms, this means buns, buns and more buns.

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Hair Styling: The Reality
We've had our fair share of updo tutorials, but these women are the absolute pros when it comes to creating precise buns, down to the dimension. "Our regulations state that our hair can't be in our faces or be touching the collars of our uniform. There is no limit on how long it can be ... just so long as your bun isn't larger than a 4-inch wad," says Peterson. The key to a polished bun that stays put? A stock of black elastics, bobby pins, practice, and the number-one cardinal rule: "Spray the hell out of it with hairspray," Peterson recites.

However, bun fatigue is a real occupational hazard. "Some women cut their hair short to avoid buns, but the challenge is that it always has to be above the bottom edge of your collar. That means a lot of trips to the hair salon for trims," Baer explains. Frost is one of those women who has avoided the daily bun routine. "I've tried a couple of styles, but have kept the bob style for multiple years. The simplicity of the cut and the ability to wear my hair down makes this style optimal for me."

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Makeup: The Rules
In AR 6701-1, men get an extra section about facial hair restrictions (with a handy face diagram), and women get an extra section on cosmetics. Women are authorized to wear cosmetics with all uniforms, so long as they are applied "conservatively and in good taste and complement the uniform and their complexion." Baer translates: "We are limited to wearing modest colors in makeup -- not anything faddish." In short, don't even bother trying to get away with anything eccentric, exaggerated (sorry, dramatic cat eye), or overly trendy in color.

Lipstick gets called out in particular. "Females will not wear shades of lipstick that distinctly contrast their complexion, that detract from the uniform, or that are extreme," meaning lip colors in purple, gold, blue, black, white, bright (fire-engine) red, khaki, and fluorescent colors." We may be clinging harder to our NARS velvet matte lip pencil, but like with all rules, there are bigger things at play. "While I love colors and glitz, I'm focused on the mission just like the next professional when on duty," says Baer. "This means dressing within regulations just like the next service member."

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Makeup: The Reality
For servicewomen, maintaining a makeup routine is simply about feeling more at home and confident. "I never feel pressured to look or not look a certain way, but I always want to put my best self forward, no matter what environment I'm in," says Peterson, who, time-permitting, will opt for the basics: mascara, eyeliner, blush, gloss or chapstick. "Everything else can wait until I'm back home."

However, she does feel that women need to use some judgment when putting on makeup. "For example, I wouldn't cake on a pound of makeup and bright, red lipstick just to go take a Physical Fitness Test. In that instance, I'd be wearing no makeup at all, but you'd be surprised...there are some girls," Peterson says.

To stay within guidelines, Frost looks to Revlon products for the brand's range of neutral and natural colors. For lips that weather wind, sun and dirt: "Burt's Bees has a great line of lip glosses that provide just the right hint of color and sunscreen."

If you're a traveler looking for an all-around winner, Baer looks to Bare Escentuals and Urban Decay Naked Eyeshadow Palette, $52, for its versatility.

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Nails: The Rules
Both men and women are expected to be their own manicurists and maintain clean, neatly trimmed fingernails. Women's nails cannot be more than a quarter-inch longer than the fingertip. As with the majority of the uniform guidelines, it's less about the aesthetics (Army Generals really don't have strong opinions about claw manis versus square ones), than it is about possible safety hazards. If nail length interferes with the performance of duties (like shooting a gun, for instance), commanders will decide whether the clippers and files need to come out.

When it comes to polishes, cult favorite "Ballet Slippers" is probably the best bet as the code states "females will not wear shades of nail polish that distinctly contrast their complexion, that detract from the uniform, or that are extreme." What qualifies as extreme? Main offenders include -- but are not limited to -- purple, gold, blue, black, white, bright red, khaki, camouflage colors, and fluorescent colors ... so the majority of our fall nail polish roundup is out. The same goes for any nail art: any designs, two-tone, or multi-tone colors are out of the question.

When you're on the front lines of battle, there's plenty to worry about. You have to be on constant alert for snipers, sneak attacks and hidden explosives. What you're not so concerned about is a bad hair day or a broken nail. Still, that doesn't mean beauty products and rituals have no place in female soldiers' daily lives. Earlier this year, the Pentagon removed its ban on women serving in combat positions. This groundbreaking ruling opened up more than 200,000 positions for women in front-lines jobs, such as tankers and infantryman

While women finally gained equal footing in the armed forces -- at least on paper -- clouds of doubt still hover over their ability to measure up to their male counterparts. To complicate matters, female Israel Defense Force officers made news this past summer for their petition to expand manicure options and polish colors. Though this may seem like two steps back for women and their place on the battlefield, women on the front lines defend their right to a proper mani. When we spoke to Army Lieutenant Colonel Candice Frost, Air Force Major Ashley Baer, Air Force Officer Sarah Peterson, and Army Medic Kristie Robson, they insisted that refusing to compromise society's idea of femininity -- even in fatigues, and even in battle -- empowers women.

"Some women may feel pressured to conform to a masculine standard at some point in their careers. But I believe all women eventually face a point where they decide what is comfortable for them in terms of how they look," says Army Lieutenant Colonel Candice Frost. Early on, I found it's possible to express my individuality and femininity in different ways." Whether that means wearing more dresses during time off or packing a curl amplifier when abroad, it's about feeling comfortable and confident in high-stress situations.

We may use the hypothetical desert island game to pare down our product picks to our absolute essentials, but these women have lived it daily. I took a look at the Army Regulation 6701-1 on Wear and Appearance of Army Uniforms and Insigina, and talked to theses servicewomen to learn how their usual beauty routine has morphed to meet army guidelines. For these women, it's not about hoarding products to cover up sun spots or make your eyes pop -- it's about taking everyday products and turning them into a source of comfort and empowerment in a traditionally male-dominated world.
BY ERICA SMITH | NOV 12, 2013 | SHARES
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