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Why Are More Black Women Going Bald?

Dermatologists say irreparable hair loss affects black women more than any other ethnicity. Here's how to get to the root of the problem
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The Cause: Central Centrifugal Cicatricial Alopecia
Hold on to your seats, because this offender is by far the most frightening. Central centrifugal cicatricial alopecia is inflammation that starts at the center of the scalp and moves outward, scarring hair follicles as it goes. The scariest part of this disease: once a follicle is scarred, hair will never grow from that follicle again. According to Dr. Robert Leonard, chief surgeon and founder of Leonard Hair Transplant Associates, CCCA isn't only a dermatologic disease most commonly seen in black women, it's also one of the most difficult types of hair loss to treat.

Why? Mainly because experts aren't completely sure of the cause. In the 1950s, its prevalence in the black community led many to believe it was the result of using hot combs with petrolatum (hence the nickname "hot comb alopecia"). Today, some experts believe it's genetic and others think straightening procedures and pulling from braids, weaves and extensions lead to the condition. Some say it's a combo of both. Regardless, treatment is possible, as long as it starts early.



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The Fix: Get Evaluated
If you notice a small patch of hair loss that's slowly getting larger or a shiny patch of scalp at the center of your head -- two telltale signs of CCCA -- get to your derm ASAP. "Prevention is very important because this is a progressive condition that spreads," says Leonard. Once you've made an appointment, your derm can diagnose CCCA with a scalp biopsy. A small area of your scalp is numbed and a tiny piece (around 4 millimeters) is removed and sent to a lab to be analyzed for inflammation and scar tissue. A small stitch closes everything up and you'll be out of there in half an hour.

OK, you've been diagnosed. Now what? Hate to say it, but just as there is no agreed-upon cause for CCCA, there is no agreed-upon treatment. You could be prescribed oral and topical antibiotics to stop inflammation, topical steroids or even injectable ones. After about four to six weeks, painful sensations will stop, hair loss will slow, and some lucky patients may notice some new hair growth. However, if CCCA has gone undiagnosed for too long, there is no guarantee that new hair will grow back, so stay on the lookout for suspicious activity on your scalp.

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The Cause: Androgenic Alopecia
Hate to break it to you, but hair loss could just be in your blood. Yep, one of the most common causes of hair loss in black women (and women in general) is simply genetics. "If you're suffering from hair loss, just look back at your family tree and you'll most likely find the same story," says Leonard. The gene for hair loss can be inherited from either of your parents.

How can you tell if genes are at play? In women, genetic hair loss (also affectionately referred to as female pattern baldness) is characterized by an overall thinning rather than that familiar receding hairline we see in men. Unfortunately, there's nothing you can do to prevent this type of hair loss -- we don't choose our family, after all -- but there are ways to get some of your lost hair back.

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The Fix: Get It Back
According to Leonard, there are two medically sound and scientifically proven treatments out there for female pattern baldness: Rogaine foam and low-level laser therapy, like the Capillus LaserCap.

The third and trickiest option is hair restoration surgery, which Leonard says can have great results. Unfortunately, thanks to good ol' logistics, only about 2 to 5 percent of women are candidates for the procedure. During hair transplant surgery, tiny pieces of skin and hair follicles are surgically removed from the back and along the sides of the head to areas of thinness. But most women have thinning all over the head, including the sides and the back -- the main donor sites for the surgery.

But all hope isn't lost. If you suffer from hair loss due to traction alopecia (more on that next), chemical or physical burns or scarring from accidents or incisions, you may be one of those few women eligible for hair restoration surgery. Your best bet is to find a member of the International Society of Hair Restoration Surgery and get a proper diagnosis before you start clearing your schedule.

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The Cause: Traction Alopecia
Dermatologists see all types of hair loss, but hair stylists tend to see one in particular: traction alopecia, hair loss caused by pulling and tugging. "Bad weave jobs, too-tight braids and twists, tugging extensions ... long-term use of these styles can cause scarring of the scalp, damaged hair follicles and even mold, all of which can lead to permanent hair loss," says Ngozi Opara, a natural hairstylist and the founder of Heat Free Hair.

Hopefully, you haven't seen mold (mold!) growing on your scalp, but you have seen traction alopecia before. It affects the entire hairline and above the ears -- the areas you see balding in paparazzi shots of celebs, like Naomi Campbell, who have worn extensions and weaves for most of their careers.

According to celebrity hairstylist Ursula Stephens, the growing popularity of lacefront wigs, worn by celebrities like Beyoncé and Moesha's BFF, is also causing women to abuse them. "Women are wearing them for long periods of time and removing them incorrectly," she says. "And once you start wearing them, it's hard to stop because it becomes a necessity to cover up the hair loss it's causing."

BY ERICA SMITH | JUN 11, 2014 | SHARES
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