Hair Needs to Be in Good Condition
If hair could be described as frazzled at best, it's wise to hold off on perming until strands are in better condition. Esmeralda Rizzo, stylist at Eddie Arthur Salon, says, "Hair should be cut, vibrant and should have no other chemical products in it." That includes bleach and color — even highlights and prelightened hair. "If your hair falls under these conditions then think twice [about getting a perm] or question your stylist," Rizzo says. A perm is a chemical process. If hair is already straggly, a perm is going to make matters worse.
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It's Not All About Poodle Curls
The modern perms blowing up on Instagram are loose, tousled styles and not like the gravity-defying coils from decades gone by. No two perms are identical, so it's important that you and your hairstylist are on the same page regarding what you want. Have a consultation. Bring photos and talk about your hair. Processing time, curl pattern and how open hair follicles are during the treatment will also impact the final results.
Perms are a chemical treatment as opposed to a thermal one and come with different looks. "[Hair] is not going to look like it has been curled with tongs or blow-dried big and bouncy," says Brendan O'Sullivan, creative director of Brendan O'Sullivan Hair and Beauty. "Perms give more natural-looking curls."
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Processing Times Vary
Each head of hair reacts differently. According to Joico guest artist Drea Lecher, timing depends on the client's hair texture, if they had any previous color services and the kind of wave they want. Processing times can go from as little as three minutes up to 20. To prevent hair from processing too far, Lecher says it's important that strands are tested every three to five minutes, especially if hair was previously colored.
Rizzo agrees and says timing also varies depending on how porous hair is. "When hair is porous, it absorbs faster, meaning your hair follicles are open [to] taking in products faster than if your hair wasn't porous," she says.
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Hair Colors Need to Be Planned Accordingly
If you are dead set on having color and a perm, beware. Creative director of Inanch London Inanch Emir says that if color or bleach was previously applied, it will be lifted during a perm process. Perms work best on hair with no prior chemical services. Lawrence Wesley, colorist at Antonio Prieto Salon, recommends waiting two to four weeks after color to get a perm.
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It's Not a True Wash-and-Go Style
Do you imagine hopping in the shower every day and having instant, springy, perm-induced curls? Not so fast. Lecher says this is one of the biggest myths about getting a perm. Just like when your hair was straight, you'll need to use hair products and styling tools to get the look you want.
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