"A true bag occurs when the fat pads under the eye drop and begin to bulge," explains Annie Chiu, M.D., a cosmetic dermatologist in Hermosa Beach, California. "This typically occurs with age, once skin loses collagen and becomes loose and less firm. There's no longer any support behind that fat pad, so it starts to stick out." Some women are simply genetically predisposed to getting these type of bags under the eye, which usually start to crop up in the mid-40s to the mid-50s, says Renée Rouleau, celebrity esthetician and founder of Renée Rouleau Skincare. (And, not that you need another reason to avoid it, but smoking can exacerbate this kind of baggy situation, since it leads to a loss of collagen and sagging skin.)
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If So, See a Derm
For these kind of under-eye bags, topical products aren't going to cut the mustard. The only permanent way to get rid of eye bags is to surgically remove the fat pad, then tighten the skin around it, a procedure known as a lower lid blepharoplasty, says Chiu. The results are lasting, but be prepared to shell out the big bucks (we're talking thousands of dollars), and spend a couple of weeks recovering.
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There's a Non-Surgical Way to Get Rid of Bags, Too
If you don't want to go under the knife, going under the needle is another alternative: "Injecting hyaluronic acid filler in the area around the fat pad softens the edges and camouflages the bulge," explains Chiu, who does note that this is an off-label way to use fillers. The results last only for a year or so, but the price tag is significantly less than that of surgery, anywhere from $700-$1,400, according to Chiu. The one caveat: If the under-eye skin is especially loose or saggy, or the fat pads overly prominent, fillers may not be the right solution.
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Puffiness May Be More of Your Problem
While not technically the same kind of under-eye bags as those that come with age, puffiness is another cause of under-eye issues. "The area under the eyes is anatomically prone to retain water and can easily look swollen and puffy," explains Chiu. Things like diet and sleeping position can affect this (more on that later), but if it seems like your puffiness is persistent, the culprit may be allergies, which can cause this consistently swollen appearance, says Chiu. It's especially important to keep puffiness at bay if you know you're genetically predisposed to those bulging fat pads we mentioned earlier: "When the area is always swollen, the skin becomes stretched out and more prone to sagging and laxity long-term," notes Rouleau.
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Luckily, There Are Products for That
If straight puffiness is your concern, topical eye products can most definitely help. Gel formulas are your new BFF, since they're more cooling than lotions or creams, says Rouleau. "Cold temperatures constrict blood vessels to reduce swelling and puffiness," she explains. Even better, choose one that contains caffeine: "Not only does caffeine help constrict the blood vessels, it's also a diuretic that helps flush out excess water," Chiu says. One to try: Garnier Skinactive Miracle Anti-Fatigue Eye Gel-Cream, $17. Products with metal applicators are also a smart choice. The metal tip is cooling (espesh if you stash it in your fridge), and using it to massage in the product helps promote drainage. Our go-to: First Aid Beauty Eye Duty Triple Remedy, $36.
