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The Real Difference Between Affordable and Expensive Skin Care

Eye creams, face oils, sheet masks, oh my. Here, what to buy when you're feeling thrifty and what's worth spending on when it's time to indulge
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Save vs. Splurge: Daily Moisturizer
The Save: Burt's Bees Radiance Day Cream, $18

The Splurge:
Guerlain Abeille Royale Nourishing Day Cream, $180

The Breakdown:
According to dermatologists, the most important step in your morning skin-care routine is sunscreen, which often works just fine as a moisturizer. However, if you have mature or dry skin, day creams offer an extra boost of hydration.

A basic, fragrance-free face lotion should do the trick for most skin types. But if you want a little more anti-aging bang for your buck, there are a number of trendy ingredients to try out. One of these is Royal Jelly, an antioxidant-packed honeybee derivative that's been shown to increase collagen production and moisture content in the skin.

You'll find Royal Jelly in these Guerlain and Burt's Bees moisturizers, which both feel hydrating and nourishing. The formulas are lightweight, non-greasy and fast-absorbing. Of course, you can't compare the packaging. The Guerlain jar looks like something from a museum. But for exactly ten times the price, it's definitely an extravagance.

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Save vs. Splurge: Antioxidant Serum
The Save: Paula's Choice Resist C15 Super Booster, $48

The Splurge:
SkinCeuticals C E Ferulic, $162

The Breakdown:
We reach for serums when we want a concentrated dose of nutrients. Usually a serum is one of the last products to touch your skin (after cleansing and toning), so according to Frey, it's worth shelling out slightly more for clinically proven ingredients.

In terms of pricing, it's helpful to think of serums as the wine of skin care, meaning, you can tell a difference between a $10 and a $50 bottle, but between $50 and $500, the difference is mostly reputation.

This SkinCeuticals tonic is packed with ferulic acid, which protects against photoaging (aka, wrinkles caused by the sun), as well as Vitamins C and E, which further fortify that barrier. With the price tag, you're paying for the high concentrations of these active ingredients.

For less than a third of the price, this Paula's Choice serum is quite similar, sporting nearly equal percentages of each antioxidant. The product even boasts the same distinctive, almost meaty scent of the SkinCeuticals. (Weird, we know.)

Though you can find even less expensive products at the drugstore (the "Two-Buck Chucks" of serums, if you will), that's when you start noticing a drastic change in ingredients and efficacy.

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Save vs. Splurge: Acne Treatment
The Save: Proactiv+ Three-Step System, $29.95

The Splurge:
SkinMedica Acne System, $104

The Breakdown:
In the land of acne treatments, two ingredients reign supreme: benzoyl peroxide, which acts as an antiseptic, and salicylic acid, a chemical exfoliator. The former tends to work best on bacteria-laden whiteheads and the latter on blackheads and big, red blemishes. Used together, they combat all of the above.

SkinMedica's pricier kit contains a 2 percent salicylic acid cleanser and toner, as well as a 2.5 percent benzoyl peroxide moisturizer. The Proactive+ kit features a 2.5 percent benzoyl peroxide cleanser and pore treatment, plus a 0.5 percent salicylic acid moisturizer.

The ingredients are the same; it's the products and concentrations that differ. While SkinMedica focuses more on salicylic acid and Proactiv+ on benzoyl peroxide, both ingredients are proven effective. And according to Frey, when an ingredient's percentage is stated directly, it means that percentage is guaranteed for the life of the product. In other words, you can trust both kits won't expire on you.

Marketing-wise, Proactiv+ has geared its product more toward teens and young adults, and SkinMedica toward adult-acne sufferers. Thus, one possible difference in price. But when you break it down, effective ingredients work — and Proactiv+'s won't care how old you are, as long as you don't.

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Save vs. Splurge: Eye Cream
The Save: Simple Revitalizing Eye Roll-On, $10.99

The Splurge:
Do Not Age with Dr. Brandt Triple Peptide Eye Cream, $80

The Breakdown:
The point of eye cream is to keep your fast-aging under-eye area as moisturized as possible. The more hydrated it is, the tauter it will be, staying firm and wrinkle-free over time.

The good news is that you don't need expensive ingredients to keep your under-eyes effectively hydrated. However, peptide-loaded eye creams are having a major moment. Peptides help build up the skin's barrier, making it less prone to burning and redness. Problem is, they're one of the priciest components of skin-care products. If you have sensitive skin, you might choose to spring for a peptide-infused eye cream, such as this Dr. Brandt pick.

For sensitive skin sufferers on a budget, try this gentle pick from Simple. It's free of harsh dyes, perfumes and other irritants. Though it's not a thick, decadent cream like Dr. Brandt's, it contains derm-recommended elements, like de-puffing cucumber and hydrating glycerin, which get the job done for $70 less. Plus, the packaging is opaque and airtight — unlike the Dr. Brandt jar — meaning the active ingredients are better protected against degradation and bacteria.

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Save vs. Splurge: Night Cream
The Save: Mario Badescu Skin Care Seaweed Night Cream, $22

The Splurge:
La Mer Crème De La Mer, $170

The Breakdown:
Both La Mer and Mario Badescu's products use undersea plant extracts to create rich, deeply moisturizing face creams. While La Mer's texture is thicker and its scent is a touch more spa-like, there are other factors accounting for the price.

"La Mer's custom-made jar is much more expensive than standard [packaging]," explains Anne Pouillot, Research and Development Director at Alchimie Forever. Beyond the posh exterior, regardless of what it costs to manufacture the product itself, "pricing La Mer under $50 does not match the brand's story or desired customer," Pouillot explains.

In other words, La Mer is meant to be a splurge, while Mario Badescu tells a different story. It's a suite at the Four Seasons versus a double bed at the Marriott. One might be fancier, but at the end of the day, you'll sleep fine in both.

BY AMANDA MONTELL | OCT 26, 2015 | SHARES
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