Here's the deal: In order to get those hydrating, plumping and brightening products you pay pretty pennies for into your skin, you have to remove buildup first. "Even the best products won't work if there is debris or oil on the skin," says Craig Kraffert, M.D. and president of Korean skin care line Amarté. Cleanser is a must for those with oily skin, but dermatologist Dendy Engelman, M.D., says that those with extra dry skin can get by with misting their face with water or toner.
Once your skin is properly cleansed, apply any prescriptions or OTC treatments for acne or wrinkles (or both! Thanks, retinoids) right next to your skin. Kraffert says that you want molecules in prescription skin care to be well absorbed, so they can get deep into your skin. And don't worry about applying wrinkle-fighting retinol during the day. Retinoids are photosensitive (meaning they break down in light), but as long as you wear a sunscreen, Kraffert says your skin -- and the product -- should be protected. (Stay tuned for when to apply your sun protection.)
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A.M. Step 3: Hydrate With Serum
Think of serum as extra nourishment for your skin. Serums deliver a concentrated dose of hydration and antioxidants that a moisturizer typically can't, explains Kraffert. Look for one with hydration-delivering humectants, like glycerin, aloe vera juice or botanical extracts. These ingredients pull moisture into your skin, to keep it hydrated and happy.
To lock in moisture, use a facial oil on top of a hydrating serum, says Kraffert. Engelman suggests sticking with light oils, like argan and rosehip seed oil, which have antibacterial properties that will decrease breakouts and inflammation. Heavy oils that are solid at room temperature (we're looking at you, coconut) will simply sit on top of the skin and, says Engelman, are much more likely to clog your pores. If you're using a heavy oil, apply it last.
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A.M. Step 5: Moisturize & Protect Against the Sun
Daytime calls for a light lotion; use a moisturizer/sunscreen combo such as Amarté Ultra Veil Sunscreen to lighten your product load. According to Kraffert, the UV-blocking properties of sunscreen will prevent other ingredients from reaching your skin, so SPF should always come last. "Sunscreen active ingredients are meant to not be absorbed," says Kraffert. If you're using a separate moisturizer and sunscreen, use the moisturizer first, then layer the sunscreen on top of it.
What comes first? Forget the chicken and the egg, we're talking about our skin care products, like serum, moisturizer, face oil and sunscreen. A cabinet full of products to keep you blemish-, wrinkle- and sun spot-free means nothing if you don't know in what order to apply them. Instead of slapping them on and crossing our fingers, we conducted a skin care nerd-out session with board certified dermatologists Dendy Engelman, M.D., and Craig Kraffert, M.D., who is also the president of Korean skincare line Amarté. We grilled them to find out which products should be applied first, last and everywhere in between so that they can perform exactly as they're supposed to. Here, these derms school us in the exhaustive process of layering skin care.
