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The ABCs of Acne

Everything you need to know about the causes of and treatments for acne, your most mystifying skin issue
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A Is for Acid
Lots of over-the-counter acne treatments contain alpha- or beta-hydroxy acids, which cause older, damaged skin cells to shed, leading to clearer, more even-toned skin. Here are some acids to look for in your skin care products.

Salicylic acid is used in acne treatment products more often than any other acid because it "dries the skin and unclogs pores," says Dr. Gary Goldfaden, M.D., dermatologist and founder of the Goldfaden MD line of skin care.

Glycolic acid is best for "anti-aging, brightening and [treating] hyperpigmentation," says Goldfaden. "[It] can help with acne, especially if scarring has occurred."

Lactic and mandelic acids have benefits similar to glycolic acid, but they're milder and better tolerated by irritation-prone skin.

Your Rx: Look for the acid-based acne products that are tailored to your skin type. If you're not sure how sensitive you are, start with a mandelic acid- or lactic acid- based formula like Philosophy Miracle Worker Lactic Acid Cleanser, working up to a stronger product such as Peter Thomas Roth Glycolic Acid 3% Facial Wash.

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B Is for Bacteria
Skin experts have long known that the Propionibacterium acnes (aka P. acnes) bacteria is responsible for pimples. But it turns out that your skin's type of P. acnes bacteria could be the root of your skin issue.

A study at the University of California Los Angeles indicated that P. acnes bacteria has three strains: two that occur in people with acne, and one that occurs in clear-skinned people. Experts believe that the latter strain actually prevents pimples.

In the future, expect to see acne treatments that increase the amount of "good" bacteria on skin while defeating "bad" bugs and (hopefully) nipping zits in the bud.

Your Rx: Until those high-tech products come out, look for acne washes and lotions meant to attack the P. acnes bacteria that causes acne (unlike acids, which work by drying pimples). Try Murad Acne Clarifying Cleanser, which clears pimples with antibacterial triclosan.

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C Is for Cortisol
"Reduce your stress." Reading this probably makes you want to drop-kick your computer. If only it was so easy, right? But managing stress goes hand-in-hand with managing acne.

Stressful situations cause your adrenal glands to release cortisol (the "fight-or-flight" hormone), which throws off skin function and triggers the release of sebum. One powerful study shows that people who are subjected to sleep deprivation for just one night have blood cortisol levels 37-45 percent higher the next night.

Dr. Marina Peredo, M.D., founder of Marina I. Peredo Dermatology and Spatique Medical Spa in Smithtown, N.Y., says there's another major pitfall of sleep deprivation. "Lack of sleep increases inflammation, which is a main cause behind acne," she explains. "Breakouts may occur after a night of not sleeping.

Your Rx: Not all causes of stress are within our control, so take responsibility for the things you can do to keep stress in check: Get adequate sleep and exercise. Make eight hours of sleep and 30 minutes of exercise daily priorities.

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D Is for Dairy
Milk does a body good, amiright? Well, maybe not -- or at least maybe not your face.

Researchers have noted that acne is virtually nonexistent in non-Western cultures that don't consume milk products. Some experts speculate that dairy consumption stimulates acne by increasing the level of an insulin-like growth factor in the body, mimicking what the body goes through during puberty.

Another possible explanation? "A diet that has a lot of dairy in it is pro-inflammatory," says Dr. Paul Jarrod Frank, M.D., Cosmetic Dermatologist and Director of the 5th Avenue Dermatology Surgery & Laser Center in New York City, N.Y. "It can exacerbate any condition, like acne, that involves inflammation of tissue."

Your Rx: More research needs to be done to prove the link, but in the meantime, consider switching out milk for calcium-enriched, unsweetened almond or coconut milk.

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E Is for Estrogen
The birth control pill: It kicked off the sexual revolution, millions of women can now get it for free (thanks to the Affordable Care Act) and it can even treat your acne. If you've noticed that your menstrual and pre-menstrual days tend to coincide with crazy breakouts, a birth control pill may do wonders.

"Fluctuating hormones for the week before and during a woman's period can wreak havoc on the skin due to increased acne," says Dr. Elizabeth Tanzi, M.D., co-director of the Washington Institute of Dermatologic Laser Surgery in Washington, D.C. "Birth control pills stabilize the levels of hormones throughout the month so you don't get the wild ups and downs; therefore, it helps avoid breakouts.

Your Rx: If you see a correlation between the onset of your period and when pimples crop up, talk to your doctor. Only three pills are FDA-approved to treat breakouts -- Yaz, Ortho Tri-Cyclen and Estrostep -- but many more, like Alesse, have been clinically shown to improve acne.

What causes acne, how to prevent acne from forming, and how to treat existing acne are three of the most mystifying issues in dermatology today. That's because acne can be influenced by such a weird amalgamation of factors -- from major influences like lifestyle, heredity and stress down to seemingly insignificant details like what you pour over your cereal in the morning. Here's everything we know about acne and how to cure it, from the foods that cause acne to pimple home remedies to antibiotics for acne.
BY KATIE MCCARTHY | JUN 1, 2015 | SHARES
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