What Comes First, Eye Cream or Moisturizer?

Amp up products' effectiveness by applying serums, creams and treatments in the right order

Morning Routine

Step one: cleanser

Obvious, yeah, but you must always start by washing your face to dissolve dirt, oil and grime, which can block pores and keep other products from getting in and doing their work.

Next page: Step two<

Morning Routine

Step two: exfoliant

Feel free to skip cleansing on days you exfoliate, since sloughing also removes dirt and oil, says Dr. Jeannette Graf, assistant clinical professor of dermatology at New York University School of Medicine.

Next page: Step three

Morning Routine

Step three: toner

Many experts don't promote toning, but there are exceptions. "It's good as a post-rinse following at-home microdermabrasion to remove tiny crystals, or as a soothing step following makeup removal," Graf says.

Next page: Step four

Morning Routine

Step four: prescription products

"Always apply prescription topicals first, on clean, dry skin, to enhance their penetration," says Graf. Many are designed to be used twice daily, so make sure they're at the top of the order at night, too.

Next page: Step five

Morning Routine

Step five: antioxidant serum

Think of layering skincare products as you would layering clothes in winter. "Start with the thinnest item and end with the thickest," Graf says. Free radical-fighting serums are crucial for daytime wear when your skin needs protection from the sun and pollution.

Next page: Step six

Morning Routine

Step six: eye cream

Pat it on prior to moisturizing. "Topping an eye cream or serum with lotion will actually seal in its active ingredients," explains Ranella Hirsch, a dermatologist in Cambridge, Mass., and president-elect of the American Society of Cosmetic Dermatology and Aesthetic Surgery. Your morning eye product should contain antioxidants, SPF and moisturizing humectants like glycerin and propylene glycol.

Next page: Step seven

Morning Routine

Step seven: redness relievers

"These products include ingredients like green tea (which contains caffeine) and niacinamide to constrict capillaries and abate redness," says Howard Fein, director of dermatologic surgery at Harbor-UCLA Medical Center. Take advantage of these visible benefits by using them during the day, in place of your regular moisturizer. Always pair them with sunscreen, adds Hirsch, and cut back on other potentially irritating products -- retinoids, scrubs and alcohol-based serums -- which aggravate ruddy complexions.

Next page: Step eight

Morning Routine

Step eight: moisturizer

Consider the chemistry of creams: "They usually contain more oil than water," Fein says. "So if you were to put them on first, your lighter, water-based gels and serums would slide off your face instead of sinking in." But by applying them almost last, they actually lock in your other products, boosting their efficacy.

Next page: Step nine

Morning Routine

Step nine: sunscreen

If your moisturizer doubles as an SPF 30 or higher sunscreen -- and you're spending the day indoors -- you can omit the additional sunscreen, Hirsch says.

Next page: Step 10

Morning Routine

Step 10: makeup primer

Whether using it to fill in lines, hide pores or just create an even canvas for color, silicone-based primer is your last step. It's like waterproofing your skin, says Jim Hammer, a cosmetics chemist at Pharmasol Labs in Easton, Mass. If you were to apply it before your day cream or sunscreen, those water-based products couldn't penetrate. "If you smooth it on after, your skin can absorb your moisturizer before the primer forms a slick film on top of it," Hammer says.

Next page: Evening routine

Evening Routine

Step one: cleanser

Again, dissolve makeup, dirt, oil and daily grime so all those nighttime goodies can work on clean, bare skin.

Next page: Step two

Evening Routine

Step two: retinoids/prescription skin care

Skin-smoothing retinoids take top precedence at night -- and not just because they're prescription products. "If your skin is moist from water or cream, a retinoid can become more irritating to skin," says Audrey Kunin, a dermatologist in Kansas City and founder of dermadoctor.com. Never apply retinoid products over any sort of serum or lotion, and only apply it after dark. "Sunlight can degrade retinoids, rendering them powerless," Fein says. Retinoids also increase your risk of burning by thinning your outermost layer of skin. If your complexion calls for a different kind of prescription drug, use that product here in place of retinoids.

Next page: Step three

Evening Routine

Step three: hydroquinone spot treatments

According to Graf, hydroquinone and retinoids work synergistically, intensifying each other's performance. So wearing one on top of the other makes good sense. Why at night? "The sun, which promotes melanin production, can counteract hydroquinone's pigment-inhibiting effects," Hirsch says.

Next page: Step four

Evening Routine

Step four: peptide serum

Peptides are most useful at night when the skin is in renewal mode because they heal and regenerate skin, and can even rebuild collagen, explains Graf. If you're already using one or more of the other products listed above, opt for a peptide-rich night cream instead of a separate serum to streamline your routine.

Next page: Step five

Evening Routine

Step five: eye cream

Find a night version (no SPF) with reparative retinol or peptides.

Next page: Step six

Evening Routine

Step six: night cream

At night, the skin's pH is lower, which means dead cells shed more easily. Microcirculation is higher, allowing the skin to make new cells and mend old, tired ones, says Graf. Smoothing on a healing night cream bolsters this activity. Hirsch says rich formulas

are best because their thick, heavy base can help drive active ingredients into the skin. But if you're using retinoids, avoid creams with alpha hydroxy acids. "The two can inactivate each other when used back-to-back," Hirsch adds.

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